Birkin stock

Overwhelmed by four straight weeks of new trends flying down the runway? Take a quick break to to channel the effortless and timeless chic manifested in the Birkin/Doillon/Gainsbourg legacy.

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Amanda Wakeley

Leather and vinyl seem to rule London's runways this week, which I find irksome on multiple levels. My main problem is that I don't find either of those materials aesthetically pleasing, especially when they're cut and draped to look feminine. They are not feminine materials and dressing them up as such is ugly, not edgy.

I will concede that some girls pull off the leather skirt/t-shirt look quite well, and some can even achieve success with the increasingly ubiquitous leather shorts. Which brings me to my second gripe about London this week. The leather dresses and skirts that are being shown are old news! Designers seem to be piggy-backing on a trend rather than blazing their own trails. Fashion bloggers and retail outfits like Forever 21 and H & M have done us a great service by democratizing fashion, but perhaps at too great a cost. Fashion outsiders have become front-row insiders, pushing runway shows to gear towards commercial viability rather than towards innovation.

That's why one of my favorite shows this week has been Amanda Wakeley. The flawless cut of every garment she presented makes the collection impossible to replicate with cheap knockoffs. She even showed some femininely draped leather that came across as beautiful and timeless rather than ugly and trendy. When asked about her inspiration for this collection, she had this to say for London's fashion week website:

Capturing the visual impact of the works of J.W Waterhouse and the use of richly coloured and seductive canvases….a palette of charcoals to pebbles, contrasted with rich pansy, ruby, kimono, powder, nude and midnight. Luxurious layers, weights and textures of grey marl play with silhouette and proportion….contrasting structured looser shapes with draped layers and contoured, seamed structure.

Yup, that about sums it up. Well done.

via London Fashion Week

spring interiors

We're still oscillating between winter storms and 50 degree weather in the Northeast, but I have faith that spring will stick soon. I'm all for expediting the process by ditching clunky furniture and throwing on a fresh coat of paint. "Organized clutter" and deep hues can be cozy in the winter, but in the spring and summer months, minimalism seems ideal for keeping cool and letting in tons of light.

Pink seems acceptable in a bathroom:


Ditching a huge media stand and replacing it with a simple wooden crate can open up a room:


Consider light grey as an alternative to white, and a small ottoman or unobtrusive Lucite bench as an alternative to a space-hogging coffee table:

all images via 30elm, effineff and delight by design

NY F/W 2010 faves

Metallic/Glamour

erin featherston, alice and olivia, anna sui, l'wren scott

Girly/Ethereal

rodarte, zach posen, marchesa

all images via style.com

The Style You Haven't Done Yet

Did you see the latest episode of 'Ugly Betty,' where Amanda tries her hand at designing but Marc doesn't think she'll cut the mustard...BUT THEN tragedy strikes, Amanda come through in the clutch, and earns her stripes as a stylist? No, I doubt you saw that one, and thanks to you, 'Ugly Betty' has been canceled.

But don't worry, I'm not here to admonish you. I'm simply reminding you how important styling is. If it weren't, every magazine would simply publish photos from runway shows in lieu of fashion editorials, and the world would be an empty, empty place indeed. Think, for example, if we didn't have Lula Magazine's superior take on Moschino's S/S '08 jumpsuit...Ok, ok, both takes are lovely, but they say two different things...which is why it's so crucial NOT to take ready-to-wear collections literally as they come down the catwalk. While many shows are beautifully styled, it's important to translate these looks into something that is our own. Then, penny-pinchers that we all must be, we can zero in on one crucial element of a look and say to ourselves, "gosh, self, if I spurge on that one key piece, I can put together a million different looks with stuff I already have and BLOW that runway look OUT OF THE WATER!"

Conversely, some looks that come down the runway are exactly what we want but know we can't afford. Then we can say, "gosh, self, I can put that look together with stuff I ALREADY have in my closet!" Take this highlight from Alexander Wang's F/W 2010 show...

I love it! But most of us already have a long, structured work skirt that we can hike way up, layer over some lacy top or lingerie, pair with wool AA thigh-highs, and VOILA! A perfect look for the...I don't know...club? Office? Brothel?

Of course many of Mr. Wang's looks just can't be replicated, as is the case with much of what the runway produced in New York this past week. Stay tuned for some of these highlights and the much anticipated follow-up on terroir.

images via Lula Magazine & style.com, inspiration via KRS One

terroir, Part 1: Cheers to Dirt!

Let's pretend for a moment, shall we, that I am not someone who has eaten Cup Noodles for breakfast two days in a row, but rather someone who savors the effect of terroir on whatever she drinks and eats. Pretending is fun!

The concept of terroir is somewhat familiar to most of us as it applies to wine. According to The Bible, is it "[a]t its core...the assumption that the land from which the grapes are grown imparts a unique quality that is specific to that region." It's a romantic notion, if nothing else. Unfortunately, it may not hold much weight. According to people like Alex Maltman, professor of dream dashing, the effect of soil on wine is not significant enough for humans to taste.

Fortunately, terroir is about more than just soil. Going back to more reputable sources (Wikipedia), it refers to "the sum of the effects that the local environment has had on the manufacture of the product." The jerk-of-a-blog (actually a pretty good blog) that told me that soil is not directly related to taste redeemed itself by concluding with this:

I think consumers can be led down a path that connects soil and climate to taste in a very direct way. It's at this micro level when the interplay of soil composition, aspect of the land, micro climate, vine density, vine age, cover crop, irrigation routine and winemaker interaction can be explored in detail and some very good estimates can be made on how they affect the final wine.

Hooray! Romantic notions win again!

There is a case to be made that some people get a bit carried away with their ideals concerning soil and taste. Take Laura Parker, for example. Her "Taste of Place" installation is meant to explore two questions: "How does soil touch our lives and affect our food; and why does it matter?"

In the installation, participants are given samples of soil to which water is added, apparently simulating new rainfall. They take a big whiff of the dirt, and then eat food grown at the same farm. I was initially very intrigued by the whole concept after reading about it in the New York Times Magazine's most recent year in ideas issue. Intrigued, that is, until I watched this video. The participants are just too heavy a mix of pretentious and hippie for my taste.

Still, it does seem like an installation worthy of participation. At worst, it would be an opportunity to taste for oneself that there really is no connection between food and the dirt from which it sprung. At best, it can help the participant gain an understanding of the relationship between farm and plate (or at least justify his trendy claims that this relationship is palatable).

This would be interesting to try at home. I hope the folks at my local community garden don't mind if I play a little Peter Rabbit in their plots this summer...

Anyway, everyone raise their glasses and stay tuned for Part 2: Happy Pigs and Laughing Cows!

click on pictures for sources